Camp 3 – May 16

Looking Down the Lhotse Face From Camp 3

Looking Down the Lhotse Face From Camp 3

Camp 3 is a special place and my favorite camp on Mt. Everest, by far.  Camp 3 is located at approximately 23,500 ft and is about one-third the way up the Lhotse Face.  The Lhotse Face is a steep ice wall that extends continuously for about 4,000 ft above Camp 2 at an average slope of 45 – 55 degrees with several extended vertical sections.  Platforms for tents are chipped out of the slope with tremendous effort and the steepness and exposure, even within the camp, requires being attached to the fixed rope at all times.  No exceptions.  There are frequently repeated warnings of climbers who only steps from their tent have slipped and fell from Camp 3.  The mountain affords very little forgiveness for errors on the Lhotse Face.

And, needless to say, the views from Camp 3 are simply amazing.

Impossibly Far Away

Impossibly Far Away

I had been to Camp 3 once before during our second rotation for a short visit then returned to Camp 2 the same day.  It was a sobering experience.  My first visit to Camp 3 was without supplemental oxygen and it was extraordinarily difficult.  I recall the experience of being just a few hundred yards below camp and it feeling like it was an interminable distance.  Each step was all that I could muster and was punctuated by four deep gasping breathes, then another step.  It was extraordinarily challenging.

Fitting My Oxygen Mask

Fitting My Oxygen Mask

On the summit rotation I had full confidence that I would make it from Camp 2 to Camp 3.  The uncertainty was how much easier it would be climbing with supplemental oxygen.  The first visit took all of my physical and mental effort and I knew that to make it another mile higher to the summit, the second visit with supplemental oxygen had to be significantly easier.  Otherwise I was in big trouble.

So the great unknown for me was whether or not breathing supplemental oxygen would provide the extra energy that would be required to go high on the mountain.  I had only one experience breathing supplemental oxygen at altitude and that was for a single night at Camp 2 at a flow rate of 1 liter per minute.  That night I slept uninterrupted, warmer and more deeply than any other night on the mountain, including my nights at Base Camp.  I was planning to climb to Camp 3 at a flow rate of 2 liters per minute and I remained hopeful that it would make a significant difference.

Arriving to Camp 3

Arriving to Camp 3

When the weather forecast finally improved and we left for Camp 3 after six nights at Camp 2, I was amazed and incredibly thankful for the difference that the supplemental oxygen provided.  As advertised, supplemental oxygen was a “game changer.”  My best day of climbing on the entire expedition was the day from Camp 2 to Camp 3.  I was full of energy, I felt warm, and arrived to camp with a newfound confidence that the summit was possible.

 

  8 comments for “Camp 3 – May 16

  1. David bialecki
    June 1, 2016 at 11:43 am

    All the photos and reports Jim have really learnt me a lot about everest in general and to do the base camp trek is defiantly on my tick list

  2. Katy
    June 1, 2016 at 8:04 am

    Jim, So glad you’re home safe and sound, and we love the additional details and photos of the climb! We remain amazed at your accomplishment. Keep the posts and pictures coming…It’s like a good book that I don’t want to end!

  3. Anonymous
    May 31, 2016 at 10:33 pm

    I just took a deep breath and had a renewed since of gratitude for how easy it was. I’m loving your stories. I hope that there are more to come!

    • james.lumberg@me.com
      June 1, 2016 at 8:11 am

      Thank you for such a nice and encouraging note! I appreciate you checking in and for following along.

  4. Maggie Scheyer
    May 31, 2016 at 7:29 pm

    Jim,
    Thank you for sharing your beautiful and riveting story. When I think about being one with our breath, your journey gives that concept new meaning. Enjoy!

    • james.lumberg@me.com
      May 31, 2016 at 8:23 pm

      Thank you, Maggie. I am looking forward to seeing you soon (hopefully later this week at our board meeting). I hope you are well! Jim

  5. Art Jessen
    May 31, 2016 at 5:11 pm

    Jim – these photos and posts are magnificent! Thank you. Art

    • james.lumberg@me.com
      May 31, 2016 at 5:37 pm

      Thank you, Art. Your comments are especially meaningful coming from such an accomplished photographer! I would like to schedule a time to meet with your father, if possible. I understand that he has followed the blog and once met Edmund Hillary. Let me know if we can schedule a time to meet. It would be an honor. Jim

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