Climbing Itinerary

Below is my planned climbing itinerary — all subject to any number of variables.

This itinerary is based on an acclimatization protocol that has been established and honed over the past decade or more by Garrett Madison and others.  The acclimatization program is somewhat unique in that there are two drop backs (trekking down to lower elevations between the first and second rotation and again between the second and Summit rotation, versus staying in Everest Base Camp), only a touch of Camp 3 on the second rotation (versus spending the night) and two nights at Camp 4 (versus most teams will be in Camp 4 for a matter of hours).  This acclimatization program was one of the several important reasons that I chose to climb with Madison Mountaineering.

I will try to update this itinerary along the way based on actual progress.  (See actual dates in parentheses)

You can also track my progress here: Current Location

 

Kathmandu, Nepal
April 1 – April 3

  • Arrive in Kathmandu (stay at the Yak & Yeti Hotel) (April 1)
  • Equipment Check, Finalize Climbing Permits, Team Orientation (April 2 -3)

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Trek to Everest Base Camp
April 4 – April 12

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Everest Base Camp
April 13 – April 19

  • Rest in Everest base camp and organize equipment (April 13)
  • Train in lower Khumbu glacier (multiple days of fixed line and ladder training) (April 14-17)
  • Day to honor the 2014 Ice Fall Accident and lost Sherpa. (April 18)
  • Climb partway up the Khumbu Icefall (1/3) and return to Everest base camp (April 19)

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First Rotation
April 20 – April 28

  • Climb to Camp 1, spend the night
  • Climb part way to Camp 2, return to Camp 1 to spend the night
  • Climb to Camp 2
  • Hike partway toward the Lhotse face and return to Camp 2, spend the night
  • Descend to Everest base camp, spend the night.
  • Descend to Dingboche
  • Rest in Dingboche
  • Trek to Lobuche
  • Trek to Everest base camp

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Second Rotation
April 29 – May 11

  • Climb to Camp 1
  • Climb to Camp 2
  • Rest in Camp 2, acclimatization hike on West shoulder
  • Climb up the Lhotse face to lower Camp 3, return to Camp 2 and sleep.
  • Descend to Everest base camp.
  • Descend to Dingboche
  • Rest in Dingboche, evaluate weather for summit window.
  • Trek to Lobuche
  • Trek to Everest base camp

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Summit Rotation
May 11 – May 24

  • Climb to Camp 1
  • Climb to Camp 2
  • Rest in Camp 2
  • Climb to Camp 3
  • Climb to Camp 4
  • Rest in Camp 4 or climb to Balcony
  • Summit day and return to Camp 4!
  • Descend to Camp 2
  • Descend to Everest base camp

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Trek to Kathmandu & Return to Chicago
May 25 – May 31

  • Trek to Dingboche
  • Trek to Namche
  • Trek to Lukla
  • Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
  • Depart Kathmandu for Chicago!